Begur: Beaches, Culture, and Medieval Charm
Located in the region of Baix Empordà, in the province of Girona, the municipality of Begur is one of the most emblematic villages of the Costa Brava. Its beauty is divided between the picturesque historic center, dominated by the medieval castle, and the eight spectacular coves and beaches that shape its coastline.
Begur also stands out for its Indian houses, testimonies of a prosperous era thanks to the locals who emigrated to America in the 19th century. With a rich cultural, landscape, and architectural offering, Begur is a must-visit destination to discover the charm of the Empordà region.
What to see in Begur
Strolling through the historic center of Begur, you’ll feel immersed in its rich history. Its narrow, cobblestone streets will guide you to charming corners while the aroma of the Mediterranean accompanies you.
The Plaça de la Vila, with its lively and dynamic atmosphere, is the heart of the village—a perfect place to take a moment to pause and enjoy the welcoming vibe of this small town. Every Wednesday morning, the municipal market takes place, and during summer, it expands to include artisan and painting fairs held on additional days of the week.
You should also let yourself wander through the village’s various alleys, enjoying its tranquility and beauty.
Continuing your tour, you’ll discover the impressive defensive towers. These structures, like the Tower of Sant Ramon and the Tower of Can Marquès, harken back to the days when Begur had to defend itself from Mediterranean pirates. Their robust and strategic presence helps you imagine life during those turbulent times.
The Tower of Sant Ramon, strategically positioned along the path to the castle, stands out for its unmistakable silhouette. It preserves its original shape and offers an exceptional view of the village and its surroundings.
Meanwhile, the Tower of Can Pella i Forgas is a more elaborate example of 16th-century defensive architecture. Built directly on the rock, its sturdy structure has withstood the test of time, and today it forms part of the historical heritage that recalls the old strategies to protect the village.
As you continue exploring, the Indian houses tell another fascinating chapter of Begur’s history. In the 19th century, many locals crossed the Atlantic in search of fortune in America, and when they returned, they brought back wealth and inspiration. This legacy is reflected in buildings such as Can Sora or the Casa Bonaventura Caner Bataller, with their elegant façades and decorative details evoking colonial style.
Can Petu stands out for its elaborate sgraffito and modernist details, which add a distinctive touch to the village’s architecture.
On the other hand, Mas Carreras is a majestic construction that combines colonial elements with local heritage, reflecting the prosperity of that era.
If you want to delve deeper into this history, the Centre d’Interpretació dels Indians de Catalunya offers an immersive experience that connects with the lives of those emigrants and their impact on the village.
Now, following the path, you will come across the Church of Sant Pere. Built in the 12th century and expanded later, this Gothic church stands out for its simplicity and serenity—a perfect spot to pause and reflect on its history, which has endured the test of time.
The Spanish Civil War also destroyed the Hermitage of Sant Ramon, which dated back to the 18th century. It was rebuilt in 1951, achieving a structure very similar to the original, which can still be admired today.
Climbing to the top of the village, the Castle of Begur awaits you with spectacular views. This fortress, built in the 11th century and remodeled over subsequent centuries, was partially destroyed during the Napoleonic Wars. Even so, the ruins that we can see today allow us to imagine its defensive and strategic past, being a symbol of Begur’s history and identity. From its medieval remains, the panorama of the Costa Brava is simply breathtaking, with the Medes Islands on the horizon and the infinite blue of the sea.
And don’t forget to take the iconic photo at the colorful stairs.
Finally, you can’t leave without visiting Esclanyà, a hamlet 5 km from Begur that seems to preserve all of its medieval essence. With the Church of Sant Esteve at its center, this small showcase of historical architecture offers a peaceful walk among ancient stones and the imposing Esclanyà Tower. It’s a perfect place to end your trip to Begur with a sense of peace and authenticity.
What to do in Begur
As part of the Costa Brava, Begur offers a wide variety of activities to enjoy and lose yourself in its many corners.
The beaches of Begur are true paradises that offer experiences for all tastes. The Platja del Racó provides a panoramic view of the Medes Islands and is the largest beach in Begur. It stands out for its spaciousness and tranquility, making it ideal for those looking to relax in the sun.
Right next to it, the Platja de l’Illa Roja captivates with its reddish rock that gives the place its name. This cove is also known for its nudist character and its crystal-clear waters.
To the north, Cala Aiguafreda is a smaller and more sheltered spot, perfect for those seeking peace and a closer connection with nature.
On the other hand, Cala Sa Tuna offers a picturesque atmosphere with its fishermen’s houses reflected in the calm waters.
Finally, the Platja de Sa Riera, with its perfect combination of services and nature, is ideal for families and for those looking to enjoy a full day of sun and sea.
The Camí de Ronda is an essential experience to discover Begur’s coastline on foot. This route is divided into three distinct sections, each with its own charm and level of difficulty. This network of trails connects the various beaches and coves, allowing you to enjoy spectacular landscapes between cliffs and Mediterranean forests. Along the way, you’ll find sections such as the path linking Sa Tuna to Aiguafreda or the one connecting Aiguablava to Fornells, each with breathtaking views.
The Route of the Lookouts is another activity you shouldn’t miss. Begur boasts several strategic points, such as the Mirador del Castell, the Mirador de Sant Ramon, and the Mirador del Passeig Carmen Amaya, from which you can enjoy incredible panoramic views of the village, the coast, and the Empordà landscape. This route is perfect for photographers as well as those who want to peacefully connect with nature.
You will also find many other routes to explore in the area, such as the old path of Sa Tuna, the old path from Fornells to Aiguablava, the water path, the local trail Des Quince, and the GR 92 route.
If you’re a fan of water activities, Begur offers a wide variety of options. You can explore the crystal-clear waters by snorkeling or scuba diving, especially in coves like Aiguafreda. If you prefer sailing, you can rent kayaks or boats to discover hidden corners of the coastline. Guided paddleboarding excursions are also a popular way to enjoy the sea.
The leisure offerings in Begur include options for all tastes. At night, you can enjoy a relaxed atmosphere on the terraces of bars or have a drink in one of the pubs in the center. During the summer, it’s also common to find musical or cultural events that complement your visit to the village. Strolling through the old town under the moonlight or relaxing in the fresh air at Es Pedrís Llarg are experiences that capture the essence of Begur.
Near Begur, you can complement your visit with unique experiences like those offered by Mas Gelí, an estate located in Pals that offers activities related to enotourism, gastronomy, and culture. From walks among vineyards to wine tastings and experiences with local products.
Recommended Activities
Gastronomy
One of the undisputed protagonists of Begur’s cuisine is the rockfish. This local product, caught in the crystal-clear waters of the Costa Brava, is the base for many traditional dishes such as fish stews or “suquet de peix.” Its meat has an intense flavor and is considered a true delicacy.
Rice dishes also play a significant role on Begur’s tables. From black rice, cooked with squid ink, to the classic “surf and turf” dishes where the combination of meat and fish creates balanced and surprising flavors.
Desserts do not go unnoticed either. Catalan cream and coques de recapte are some of the sweet options you can find, often made with local ingredients.
The local cuisine is complemented by an excellent selection of DO Empordà wines. These wines, both white and red, are the perfect pairing for Begur’s dishes and add a distinctive touch to any meal.
Where to Eat
In Begur, you’ll find a wide variety of restaurants offering culinary proposals for all tastes. From traditional Catalan cuisine to dishes with modern and creative touches, the village has establishments where you can enjoy local and seasonal products in a privileged setting.
You can find the best restaurants in Begur on Guiacat.
Where to Stay
Begur offers a wide range of accommodations to suit all tastes and needs. Whether you’re looking for a charming hotel, a rural house surrounded by nature, or a cozy apartment in the village center, you’ll find options to enjoy a unique stay in this wonderful corner of the Costa Brava.
Rural houses and farmhouses are ideal for those who want a closer connection to the natural environment and the traditional essence of the Empordà. Meanwhile, boutique hotels and accommodations in the village center provide a more comfortable and sophisticated atmosphere, perfect for a romantic getaway or a relaxing weekend.
You can find the best rural accommodations in Begur on Guiacat.
Festivals and Fairs in Begur
Begur is a village with a rich cultural tradition, reflected in its festivals and events throughout the year. These celebrations combine folklore, gastronomy, and culture, offering unique moments for both locals and visitors to enjoy.
Initially, every year in spring, the Gastronomic Campaign is held. For more than a month, different restaurants offer a special menu featuring rockfish, their star product, with a wide variety of recipes.
Later, at the end of May, Begur in Bloom is celebrated. During an entire weekend, the whole village is filled with flowers, music, and activities to celebrate the arrival of spring.
One of the most iconic festivals is the Indians Fair, held on the first weekend of September. This event pays tribute to the legacy of Begur’s residents who emigrated to America and returned with fortunes, known as “americanos.” The village streets are filled with artisan stalls, tastings of colonial products, and musical performances inspired by Caribbean rhythms. It’s an occasion to relive the historical past with activities for the whole family.
At the start of summer, the last weekend of June, the Fiesta Mayor of Sant Pere is held, marking the beginning of the summer season with cultural activities and concerts. In mid-summer, over three weeks, the Begur Music Festival takes place—a festival with more than 40 editions that has become the oldest and most established in the province of Girona. Also, in August, the two famous habaneras gatherings are held: one in Plaça Esteve i Cruañas and the other on Sa Riera beach, with music and a unique maritime atmosphere.
Subsequently, on the first weekend of September, the village hosts a market of overseas products, music, and demonstrations of crafts at the Indians Fair. This fair celebrates Begur’s old relationship with Cuba and revives that historical period of the village. Then, at the end of September, the Fiesta Mayor of Santa Reparada is celebrated in honor of one of the village’s patrons.
Finally, in October, the Begur Costa Brava International Film Festival takes place. This event, specializing in the comedy genre, also includes activities such as concerts and exhibitions for all audiences.
Best Time to Visit Begur
Begur is a destination that can be visited at any time of the year, but each season offers a special charm that invites you to discover the village and its surroundings in a unique way.
Spring is ideal for enjoying the coastal paths and hiking routes, with nature in full bloom and pleasant temperatures that make this one of the best times to explore the coastline and landscapes of the Empordà. You can also take part in events such as Begur in Bloom or the Rockfish Gastronomic Campaign.
In summer, the village transforms into a lively and vibrant destination. Its beaches become meeting points for families and visitors who want to enjoy the sun and sea. Festivals such as the Begur Music Festival or the traditional habaneras gatherings add a cultural touch to summer evenings.
Autumn is also an excellent time to visit Begur, especially during the Indians Fair in September. This season allows visitors to discover the village in a calmer atmosphere while the autumn colors paint the landscape with warm tones.
Finally, winter offers a more relaxed side of Begur. Although outdoor activities decrease, it is the perfect time to stroll through the historic center without crowds and enjoy the local gastronomy in a cozy setting.
Must-Do Activities
After learning a bit more about this village, here’s a list of the essential activities to do in Begur:
- Explore the historic center with its medieval castle and defensive towers.
- Walk along the Camí de Ronda coastal path.
- Enjoy a meal featuring rockfish and rice dishes at a local restaurant.
- Participate in the Indians Fair.
- Relax at beaches like Sa Riera, Illa Roja, or Aiguafreda.
What to See Nearby
The surroundings of Begur offer a wide variety of charming places and villages worth discovering. The proximity to other destinations in the Empordà region allows visitors to complement their trip to Begur with uniquely Girona experiences.
One of the most notable places is Pals, a medieval village with an excellently preserved historic center. Strolling through its cobblestone streets, visiting the Torre de les Hores, and enjoying the views from the lookout is a must for history enthusiasts.
Not far away, Peratallada also surprises with its ancient streets, stone houses, and squares that seem frozen in time. This village is known as one of the best-preserved medieval sites in Catalonia.
The Aiguamolls de l’Empordà natural park offers a perfect contrast to the historical heritage of the area. This natural reserve is ideal for peaceful walks and birdwatching, with incredibly beautiful landscapes.
Another must-visit is the village of Monells, with its rustic charm and the famous Plaça Jaume I, a perfect example of the medieval architecture of the region. This small village is ideal for wandering its streets and enjoying a relaxed atmosphere.
How to Get There
Begur is well connected and can be reached in several ways, both by private and public transport.
By car, from Barcelona, you can take the AP-7 motorway towards Girona/France and exit at 9A (Vidreres/Lloret), connecting with the C-35, and then the C-65 and C-31, which will take you directly to Begur. The journey takes approximately an hour and a half.
If you’re coming from Girona, the trip is even easier, as you can also take the C-31. In less than an hour, you’ll reach the village, enjoying the landscapes of the Empordà along the way.
By public transport, you can take a train to Flaçà or Girona, the closest train stations. From there, bus services operated by SARFA connect to Begur. The buses are fast and comfortable, offering a stress-free option compared to driving.
For those traveling from farther away, Girona-Costa Brava Airport is the nearest and is located about 55 kilometers from Begur. From the airport, you can rent a car or take a bus to Girona and then continue on to Begur.
